When winterizing the boat (we’ll be on land this winter), I noticed that the impeller needs to be replaced next spring; several of the blades have started to break. But seven seasons (2010-2016) on an impeller is not bad – at least some of the Vetus parts are ok.
During June-August we logged about 3,300 nm; the longest summer sailing we’ve done so far. We visited Bergen, Husavik (Iceland), Isafjördur, Reykjavik, Torshavn, Lerwick and Skagen.
One of the crew, freelance journalist and PR-consultant Herwig Decker (who found us through www.7knots.com), wrote a couple of articles about the sail for his local newspapers in Bavaria.
Originally, the connection for the navigation lights at the bow pulpit is made with screw terminals located in the chain locker. And with domestic-use copper wiring. Obviously, it doesn’t take long for the terminals and the wiring to corrode, mainly due to seawater entering the chain locker when sailing close-hauled.
We replaced the wiring from the lanterns with tinned copper wire, routed the wires via water proof ports in the chain locker bulkhead into the fore cabin, where the connections were located as part of the new hawse pipe installation.
Every winter it’s the same story; lot’s of maintenance and upgrade projects going on. The boat turns into something resembling a disorganized recycling center. But then things start to fall into place and after a final rush of getting the masts back on, it’s time to put the tools away and sail.
Some time in its almost 40 year history, Anna had been fitted with two very odd ceiling lighting fixtures; one in the forward head and one in the passageway between the salon and forepeak. They really ruin the beautiful interior of the boat and gives it a haphazard look. But we’ve been searching in vain for the old style. Then suddenly they just popped up on some web site in Germany.
Whenever we’re sailing in boisterous conditions, or even just tacking frequently, we have a problem of water bottles etc sliding around on the cockpit grating. Here’s our tailor made solution
Our windlass, a Simpson-Lawrence SL-519, has been running fine. While a creature comfort, any electric windlass has some disadvantages;
- Requires engine to run to operate
- Manual back-up is painfully slow
- No feel for how hard the anything is stuck
- If anything gets stuck and fuse is triggered, it requiresÂ a trip below to reset the fuse
- Adds to general complication of boat
This got us thinking about a manual double-action, two-geared Simpson-Lawrence SL-555 Sea Tiger. When we happened to stumble on one, brand new (!), from Trafalgar Yacht Services (www.westerly-yachts.co.uk), the project somehow started realizing itself. Especially when we saw from the original drawings of the HR41, that Olle Enderlein had intended the windlass to be located aft of the bow locker; just were we felt it would be better situated (mainly for getting weight aft and a better drop for the chain into the chain locker.
The anode on the propeller shaft wears out in two seasons. We also had a problem with corrosion of the heat exchanger (a new one was provided by Vetus under warranty) and corrosion of the ball valve on the sea water intake for the engine.
To hopefully avoid premature death of our new engine and other fittings, we have fitted a small pen anode in the sea water circuit of the engine as well as a 5 kg anode on the hull, wired into the engine. Let’s see what happens…
On the HR41, the rudder post exits thru the aft deck, allowing an emergency tiller to be fitted. The problem is that water enters between the bronze axle and the nylon bushing and soaks the upper side of the head liner in the aft cabin. Water also runs on top of the liner and onto the inside of the hull, onto the bunks. Admittedly, only a problem in heavy rain or large following seas.
The solution is simple; build a cover. One small problem; the head liner either has to be cut in two or the rudder post has to come out (the post is fitted into a hole in the liner…).
Perfect timing to fix this was when we were renovating the rudder and had to take the rudder post out anyway. And then we cut the liner in two, so we can remove it more easily in the future.