Category Archives: Forepeak

Nav lights

Originally, the connection for the navigation lights at the bow pulpit is made with screw terminals located in the chain locker. And with domestic-use copper wiring. Obviously, it doesn’t take long for the terminals and the wiring to corrode, mainly due to seawater entering the chain locker when sailing close-hauled.

We replaced the wiring from the lanterns with tinned copper wire, routed the wires via water proof ports in the chain locker bulkhead into the fore cabin, where the connections were located as part of the new hawse pipe installation.

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New tinned copper wire straight from the lanterns on the bow pulpit exit the chain locker thru water proof ports into the forepeak

New windlass

Our windlass, a Simpson-Lawrence SL-519, has been running fine. While a creature comfort, any electric windlass has some disadvantages;

  • Requires engine to run to operate
  • Manual back-up is painfully slow
  • No feel for how hard the anything is stuck
  • If anything gets stuck and fuse is triggered, it requires  a trip below to reset the fuse
  • Adds to general complication of boat

This got us thinking about a manual double-action, two-geared Simpson-Lawrence SL-555 Sea Tiger. When we happened to stumble on one, brand new (!), from Trafalgar Yacht Services (www.westerly-yachts.co.uk), the project somehow started realizing itself. Especially when we saw from the original drawings of the HR41, that Olle Enderlein had intended the windlass to be located aft of the bow locker; just were we felt it would be better situated (mainly for getting weight aft and a better drop for the chain into the chain locker.

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Olle Enderlein, who designed the HR41 in 1975 and more than 120 other boats between 1946 and 1987, intended the windlass to be located just aft of the chain locker

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Base for windlass on bowsprit

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Epoxying new oversized holes

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Fiberglassing new hawse pipe running thru forecabin. The two forward bolts are centered in the bulkhead between the forecabin and bow locker

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40mm oak beam glassed in, taking the two aft bolts

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Mahogany covering of oak beam and hawse pipe

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Removing old base and preparing for new teak planking

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Bulkhead thickness increased from ca 15 to 45 mm in order to accommodate washer diameter of forward bolts of windlass. The added plywood, epoxied over with fiber glass, is also glassed to the underside of the deck.

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Job finished.

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… and then we had to sew a cover.

 

New curtains

 

Another great example of the principle that one should never try to estimate how much time a job on a boat will take, since it simply will a) decrease the probability that you will do it and b) be wrong by a factor of about 3 (the job will always take 3 times as much time as your estimate, no matter what your estimate is). Better to just start working; then you will at least save time on planning…

On the HR41, there are 32 curtains (16 portlights), assuming you do not put curtains on the portlight in the cockpit locker. We decided to go for a fabric which matches the gelcoat and also lets some light thru (as opposed to the old/original curtains which were dark blue).

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Old curtains.

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New curtains; 32 pieces, Thankfully, tthe sewing is very simple.

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The fabric prevents people outside from looking in, but still lets quite a lot of light in.

Reupholstering cushions

All cushions have the 36 year old original upholstery. It’s keeping up pretty well considering its age, but does have some ‘boat smell’ to it and also some holes after a previous owner tore out all the buttons from the cushions in the salon. The foam is still very good. So, after spending about USD 1,000 in material and two weeks at the sewing machine off and on, they all look like new. I used an old Pfaff 138 machine (has both straight and zigzag).

 

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Sewing studio

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All new cushions in place. Now the old curtains really have to go…

 

Shelf in forepeak

In the forepeak, there are two long, narrow shelves, one on each side. There is however no good storage for the board and cushion which work as a fill-in between the two bunks. The obvious solution was to build a third shelf between the two existing ones.

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Before

 

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After

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Oak fitting allowing disassembly.

Removing old echo sounder

The old echo sounder transducer was immersed in oil contained in a fiber glass box glassed to the hull under the floor boards in the forepeak. Removing this makes for easier routing of hoses and cables and frees up a little storage space as well.

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Old oil immersion box for transducer. Valve in the foreground is the only stainless steel one, all the others are made of bronze. Some day this will be changed too, but it is still in very good condiiton.

Renovate floorboards

All floorboards are made of teak plywood. The veneer is about 2+ mm thick, giving sufficient thickness for sanding a couple of times. Originally, the floorboards are just lightly oiled or waxed and attract quite a lot of dirt as well as being quite sensitive to stains from oil etc. Over the years, they had become quite scratched and did drag down the general feel of the interior.
Usually, I only use traditional varnish (Le Tonkinois and International Schooner and Original), but for the floorboards I used International’s 2-component polyurethane varnish Perfection Plus with anti-slip pearls.

 

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Slatted base for mattresses

Whenever we live in the boat for 2-3 weeks, we have a problem with condensation accumulating under the mattresses, which are resting on a plywood base. This may very well be a problem particular to colder climates (water temperature here is often around 14-16 degrees C in summer). The simple solution is to turn over the mattresses each day to dry out and wipe off the condensation each morning. A better solution is to fit a base of slats, which allows ventilation of the underside of the mattresses and also makes the bunks a lot more comfortable to sleep in. We fitted slats to the bunks in the forepeak as well as the aft cabin.

 

Slats under mattresses prevents condensation and adds to comfort. Picture form our previous boat, a Hallberg-Rassy 35 Rasmus.

Slats under mattresses prevents condensation and adds to comfort. Picture form our previous boat, a Hallberg-Rassy 35 Rasmus.