Category Archives: Done

Posts describing work completed. As opposed to posts filed under the category “to do”.

Nav lights

Originally, the connection for the navigation lights at the bow pulpit is made with screw terminals located in the chain locker. And with domestic-use copper wiring. Obviously, it doesn’t take long for the terminals and the wiring to corrode, mainly due to seawater entering the chain locker when sailing close-hauled.

We replaced the wiring from the lanterns with tinned copper wire, routed the wires via water proof ports in the chain locker bulkhead into the fore cabin, where the connections were located as part of the new hawse pipe installation.

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New tinned copper wire straight from the lanterns on the bow pulpit exit the chain locker thru water proof ports into the forepeak

Replacing odd lighting fixtures

Some time in its almost 40 year history, Anna had been fitted with two very odd ceiling lighting fixtures; one in the forward head and one in the passageway between the salon and forepeak. They really ruin the beautiful interior of the boat and gives it a haphazard look. But we’ve been searching in vain for the old style. Then suddenly they just popped up on some web site in Germany.

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Forward head. OK, it’s LED, but it doesn’t even cover the holes of the old fixture.

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Passageway. Ehhh…

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New (left) fixture is a very close match to old ones

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This is what to search for when looking for replacement fixtures

New windlass

Our windlass, a Simpson-Lawrence SL-519, has been running fine. While a creature comfort, any electric windlass has some disadvantages;

  • Requires engine to run to operate
  • Manual back-up is painfully slow
  • No feel for how hard the anything is stuck
  • If anything gets stuck and fuse is triggered, it requires  a trip below to reset the fuse
  • Adds to general complication of boat

This got us thinking about a manual double-action, two-geared Simpson-Lawrence SL-555 Sea Tiger. When we happened to stumble on one, brand new (!), from Trafalgar Yacht Services (www.westerly-yachts.co.uk), the project somehow started realizing itself. Especially when we saw from the original drawings of the HR41, that Olle Enderlein had intended the windlass to be located aft of the bow locker; just were we felt it would be better situated (mainly for getting weight aft and a better drop for the chain into the chain locker.

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Olle Enderlein, who designed the HR41 in 1975 and more than 120 other boats between 1946 and 1987, intended the windlass to be located just aft of the chain locker

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Base for windlass on bowsprit

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Epoxying new oversized holes

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Fiberglassing new hawse pipe running thru forecabin. The two forward bolts are centered in the bulkhead between the forecabin and bow locker

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40mm oak beam glassed in, taking the two aft bolts

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Mahogany covering of oak beam and hawse pipe

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Removing old base and preparing for new teak planking

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Bulkhead thickness increased from ca 15 to 45 mm in order to accommodate washer diameter of forward bolts of windlass. The added plywood, epoxied over with fiber glass, is also glassed to the underside of the deck.

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Job finished.

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… and then we had to sew a cover.

 

Sacrificial anode

The anode on the propeller shaft wears out in two seasons. We also had a problem with corrosion of the heat exchanger (a new one was provided by Vetus under warranty) and corrosion of the ball valve on the sea water intake for the engine.

To hopefully avoid premature death of our new engine and other fittings, we have fitted a small pen anode in the sea water circuit of the engine as well as a 5 kg anode on the hull, wired into the engine. Let’s see what happens…

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As close to the propeller and sea water intake as possible, with a free line of sight to both.

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Bronze thru hull post connects the zinc anode to the 16 mm2 tinned copper wire from the engine

Rudder post cover

On the HR41, the rudder post exits thru the aft deck, allowing an emergency tiller to be fitted. The problem is that water enters between the bronze axle and the nylon bushing and soaks the upper side of the head liner in the aft cabin. Water also runs on top of the liner and onto the inside of the hull, onto the bunks. Admittedly, only a problem in heavy rain or large following seas.

The solution is simple; build a cover. One small problem; the head liner either has to be cut in two or the rudder post has to come out (the post is fitted into a hole in the liner…).

Perfect timing to fix this was when we were renovating the rudder and had to take the rudder post out anyway. And then we cut the liner in two, so we can remove it more easily in the future.

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Not so dry head liner

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Rudder post exit disassembled

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Always nice to see the solid deck construction of Hallber-Rassy. Here before epoxying the scraped out Divinycell.

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New rudder post bushing made by MoS2-nylon, thanks to www.profilplast.se is in place.

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Cover, made from PVC pipe covered with epoxied fiber glass.

New thru hulls

Anna has ten thru hulls

  1. Engine cooling in
  2. Galley sink out
  3. Cockpit drain port out
  4. Cockpit drain starboard out + bilge pump out
  5. Aft head out
  6. Aft head in
  7. Aft head sink out
  8. Forward head in
  9. Forward head out
  10. Forward head sink out

Of these, we changed seven to bronze in 2010. The remaining three were 316 stainless steel and fairly new when we bought Anna. Although we were concerned about crevice corrosion, it was not until we noticed pitting 3-4 mm deep forming on the flange of one of these thru hulls combined with rusty seepage from the ball valve that we decided to swap the three for bronze.

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Rusty seepage due to some previous owner fitting a 37mm hose to a 32mm hose adapter. Outside flange of thru hull also showed some 3-4mm deep pits.

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Simple tool for pulling out old thru hull

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New bronze fittings. Now with the correct diameter hose adapter.

 

Bow thruster control panel

The ‘old’ control panel of our Vetus bow thruster short circuited because of water entering the circuit board. Not good; the thruster started running suddenly and had to be switched off by means of the main circuit breaker. Thankfully, Vetus replaced it under warranty.

At the same time, we took the opportunity to go for the new a slimmer panel. The old, square and somewhat big panel had been mounted where fingers easily caught between it and the steering wheel. Also, the sheets sometimes got caught on it. So, we built a better housing for the new panel.

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Old, huge-ish panel

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Building housing for new panel

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